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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This accolade has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble shop earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.